These fabric flowers are so fun and easy to make. I have used them on my mini Bakeshop Aprons and many other things.
My 7 year old can make them and she loves it. Here are the quick and easy steps!
What You’ll Need to make the Fabric Flowers:
Material (12 in x 3 in strip) These fabrics are from Riley Blake Designs (Love the happy colors!) You can cut your fabric longer for more ruffles:), Thread & needle, and something for the center, (jewels or buttons)
Cut a 12 x 3 in strip from your fabric. Iron the strip folded in half the long way. Fold right sides up.
Thread your needle. Double knot at the bottom. Then sew a straight running stitch (not on the folded side) along the strip…You can begin to pull and ruffle as you go. Don’t pull too hard or it will break your thread. Just pull slowly.
Step 4: Keep pulling the thread slowly until it wraps around into a ruffle flower shape.
Step 5: Turn your flower to the back side and sew a few stitches with knots in the back (especially where the two ends of fabric meet). This will finish up your flower:)
Add a jewel or a button to the center!
PART 1 of this post RIGHT HERE:
If you are just coming upon this post, now, look for the link above and see PART 1 of this post where I explained:
- quilt basics
- fabrics to use and amount
- where to find the patterns shown (RILEY BLAKE OF COURSE)
- below is the fabric chart if you missed it on the last post
Quilt Block Assembly: Even though the pictures have great explanations, there are a couple tips you can use.
- YES that is glue stick. It’s Elmer’s Washable WHITE glue stick. I got this tip from NUBBIN the true professional that wins all sorts of quilting competitions. When putting on your first strip, lightly dab glue down the middle of the strip. You don’t want it to go all the way to the edges as to avoid sewing through the glue and making the needle sticky. When that’s done, iron it and that will make it stick. For this pattern, you need the block precisely split down the middle. To make this happen (2nd row down) place the edge of the first strip 1/4″ away from the center diagonal line. This will ensure that when you add a piece to it, it will be split right down the middle.
- I cut my base muslin blocks 5″x5″ so when they were sewn, they would be 4 1/2″x 4 1/2″.
- This quilt is very forgiving on the strip portion. If things get a little crooked, no worries. You trim off all the excess fabric anyway.
- When adding the strips use the sew, iron, sew, iron techniques the whole way through.
The rest is pretty self-explanatory if you look at the pictures below. The only tip here is to iron the seams to one side on the underside. Also keep them as super straight as possible.
To finish off this darling little quilt, use your favorite binding technique and ENJOY!!!
IF YOU LOVE IT SHARE IT!!!!!
I’m so excited to share this post mainly since I have wanted to make a quilt of sorts for a long time. I finally had the excuse to make one with RILEY BLAKE FABRICS and for even more fun, check out the Riley Blake Fabric Fest in Las Vegas, NV in September where we will be teaching a class. Anyhow, Riley Blake has THE CUTEST selection of fabrics so it was hard to pick. It’s a good thing I picked the quilt that requires many colors and patterns because I got to use most of my very favorites.
One of my dear friends has a quilting professional friend named NUBBIN that so kindly, sat down with me for almost a whole day and taught me the basics of quilting. I’ve tried quilting before and to be honest, you really have to know the tricks or your sunk. There are a lot of things you can fudge in the DIY world, but not quilting. I’m so excited to share with you what she taught me and showcase these fabrics that I wanted to almost EAT when I got them. These are the fabrics I chose. This is the only way I thought of to showcase my choices.
To start, choose a quarter of a yard from twenty different fabrics with varying shades. I would say the ratio was 2/3 darker and 1/3 lighter. Easy enough right? Cut them into 1 1/2″ wide strips and cut them however long the piece was. I didn’t cut the length individually until I was sewing since I wanted to completely randomize the colors as I went. If I had an exact color patter, I would have cut them prior to sewing. This process took me about 3 hours. I cut tons of extras so I could make a matching quilt for Q’s bed. It’s so much easier to do it all in one sitting than to spread it out. It’s SUPER IMPORTANT to cut your strips evenly. If you don’t know how to do this, you will find a great tutorial HERE. I have to say thank you to my special niece Sabrina who was my iron lady for this project. We chatted and chatted and she ironed almost every piece on this quilt! Thanks Sabrina!
***TIP*** One of the great NUBBIN tips is that you keep all your fabric strips organized neatly in a tote so when you need to put things away, your fabric doesn’t get folded, scrunched and stretched out of proportion.
Here are the basic supplies to make a strip quilt. I got this design from the July issue of Quilter’s Magazine and fell in love with the star design from the moment I saw it. I took that design and modified it from a queen-sized quilt to make a doll-sized quilt. It’s best to draw out your design and figure out exactly how many squares you need of each color combo. I needed to end up with (12) solid blocks, (4) light blocks, and (8) half and half blocks to equal (24) blocks.
- If you aren’t sure what size to make your quilt, find another one that seems like the right size, measure it, and plan your design accordingly.
- It came in handy to use the Omnigrid Mat/Ironing surface combo board. It was great to be able to cut and iron back and forth with ease.
- You can either use a paper of muslin fabric base. I chose to use fabric. Fabric stays in your design and paper is removed after your block is constructed. I also used this square quilting ruler so I could make sure each block was exactly square while trimming.
Watch for the other parts of the tutorial this week that will include the assembly of the blocks, constructing of the top layer of quilt, binding and finishing. I can’t wait to share the rest with you!!! FIND PART 2 HERE!
We’ve recently joined the Riley Blake Designs Project Design Team and this is the first project I made for their blog.
A few months ago we added a little dolly to our family! It has been fun to have a baby girl to dress up after the jeans of tees 2 boys. I fell in love with the colors of the Millie’s Closet line, with the very girly red with purses and the coordinating blue. It had something to make each of my kids happy!
Finding a baby dress pattern that was what I wanted was a lot harder than I had expected, even after sifting through my mom’s pattern collection. What I learned was there aren’t many dress pattern written for itty bitties, so my mom helped me piece together a few patterns. Sew Much Ado’s infant peasant dress pattern was used as a starting point and a yoke was added to accommodate the top ruffle. I love this pattern and used it for her blessing dress in July, and might have made her another dress just last week with it too! I might have a problem.
The ruffle pieces were 2.5 inch strips, sewn, turned, ironed, stitched on the top and bottom and then a gathering stitch ran down the middle. It was gathered to just the right amount of ruffle and then sewn onto the dress. The top ruffle was sewn into the seams of the yoke.
And to finish it off, a fabric flower with a red button center was added and the non-elastic edges were top-stitched! I love these ruffle leggings (baby gift) under it!
My boys have been on a bowtie kick lately, so I let them each choose which fabric they wanted and used this tutorial from A Lemon Squeezy Home. The only adaptation from the pattern made was using interfacing, instead of fleece, to give them some stiffness without being bulky.
I love that my kids coordinate with handsome bowties and a cute little girly dress! And my boys love getting compliments on their bowties as they walk down the hall at church! And since I know you’re going to ask–the ruffle legging where a baby gift from my aunt. And I love them!
Here’s a short tutorial on how to dye fabric with the popular ombre effect. I took these pictures for a tutorial back in May and just realized I never posted it while I was ombre-ing a baby gift this weekend. So here’s how to ombre and I’ll be back to share my ombre project with you soon!
I used 100% cotton and a box of Rit dye to achieve the ombre.
First step: Add equal parts dye to three buckets and some salt, maybe a tablespoon to each bucket to help set the dye.
Then add different amounts of water to create 3 different shades of the color. In bucket #1 I added 8 cups of water, #2 I added 5 cups of water, and bucket #3 I added 2 cups of water.
Starting with bucket #1 (the lighest) I dunked the entire piece of fabric and let it sit until it had reached the desired color. Squeeze out the extra dye and more to the next bucket. If you don’t want your hands to change colors I strongly recommend wearing latex gloves while dyeing.
Then using bucket #2 I dunked the fabric about 2/3rd of the way, let it sit and then squeezed it out.
And then moved it to the final bucket to dye the last 1/3rd of the fabric to get the darkest color. Squeeze it out and then rinse with cold water.
Continue rinsing and squeezing until the water runs clear.
And ta da! An ombre piece of fabric.